It’s a modern and welcoming place, what with the design décor and the large windows, where at lunchtime you can eat pizzas that Cristian Marasco – pizzaiolo of Campanian origins but born and raised in Lecco where he runs family restaurant Grotta Azzurra in Merate and two more pizzerias in the same province – designed with Stefano Cerveni. The latter is the chef at Due Colombe in Borgonato di Cortefranca, and is in charge of all the restaurant offer of the Triennale withVistagroup.

Marasco took care of the dough, which is neither super thin and crispy nor as soft as the Neapolitan one. It is tasty, fragrant, and perfectly easy to digest, just like the one served in his restaurants in Lecco. In Milan, young Apulian Francesco Dell’Olio takes care of dough and baking. Long maturation, long cooking in the electric oven (a mandatory tool, given we’re inside a museum) and a blend of flour from 100% Italian wheat created especially by mixing organic flour type 1 (Petra 1111) with Petra 3, from wheat produced through sustainable integrated farming.

The chef, who wanted the very Marasco for his pizza project, supported him in the selection of raw materials. These include many Slow Food Presidia and PDO or local products, such as fiordilatte 100% from Lombardy, made daily by expert dairy producers with milk from the Razza Bruna della Valtellina breed. He also supported him in the creation of the topping of some pizzas – such as the rich but balanced 4 formaggi Italia-Francia, with crème fraiche d’Isigny, camembert, fiordilatte del Casaro and a natural blue cheese with honeydew honey – and of the focaccias, which are thicker, airy and soft on the inside, and pleasantly crispy outside.

In this case the high-hydration dough is based on a mix of type 1 and 0 flour, plus a multi-cereal flour. Its processing includes multiple steps: after it rises the first time, it is rolled in a baking tin and pre-cooked for 4-5 minutes; then it is chilled and baked again before being served, creating a soft and airy product, with a nice crispy contrast. In the summer, they serve the focaccias at Caffè in Giardino, the summer alfresco space overlooking Giorgio de Chirico’s Bagni misteriosi.

The seasonings range from complex and refined versions, such as Purple potato and red prawn created by Cerveni (with Apulian stracciatella di burrata, red prawns from Sicily, chives and purple potato chips), an immediate success, to simpler yet equally successful pairings such as focaccia with fried Ancient Neapolitan Tomatoes placed on each slice when still warm, paired with buffalo milk mozzarella, basil and extra virgin olive oil.


Luciana Squadrilli
source: http://www.identitagolose.it/news/view.php?id=95

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