As we write in our Guide Identità Golose 2022, ‘he is very far from diva attitudes and television vanity: very modest and down-to-earth, he has always represented the highest excellence in Versilia. Starting from the wine list to the concept of #oltrelapizza: where he is proposing leavened products and delicacies all with the common thread of experimenting and trying to mix the world of flour with that of fine dining’.

We could not choose better words to represent our most recent visit to Apogeo, one of Italy’s temples of contemporary pizza, a place of gluttonous pilgrimage for gourmets from all over the place but with that atmosphere that makes it also the pizzeria 'next door' where locals can simply pop in and enjoy a nice evening. Inclusiveness in its purest state, that is the basis, but grafted onto a work of great research and experimentation in the guise of apparent simplicity. The welcome is warm, the manners simple and unsophisticated, and the final 'bomboloncini' represent the farewell cuddle - and the synthesis of an idea of cuisine - from Barbara Boniburini, not only Massimo's wife but also his partner in crime since 2008, when the restaurant was born, in a different location but with the same idea: to focus on quality, without compromise.

We mentioned #oltrelapizza, which is the area Giovannini is moving towards after years and years of discussions with fine dining masters, 'because we are pizzaioli and we have a lot to learn, always, from them'. As if to say: 'OK, on dough I can have my say. But in order to overcome my limits I have to draw on the comparison with great professionals in a sector similar to mine, with which the distances have been gradually reduced, because by observing their work I can improve more and more'. Again: well done Giovannini, thirsty for knowledge.


Carlo Passera
source: https://www.identitagolose.it/ermes/newsletter/?id=587

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