It is true, the dough here is really interesting: four different types, always from a mix of stone-ground flours (by Petra Molino Quaglia) with a percentage of wholemeal ranging from 5 to 18% and use of biga as a starter (from 50 to 85%): there is the gourmet version, taller, airy, light, crispy on the outside, with double-rising dough and double baking in a rotating gas oven (a very fast first time. Then it is blast chilled and finally thawed slowly if necessary, before the second baking, 'so we remove almost all the moisture and the fragrance is guaranteed'); then the classic version, with a thin crust, far from the Neapolitan tradition 'i.e. not very elastic'; then the 'scrocchiarella' version (which becomes a sort of crunchy focaccia baked with a drizzle of oil, rosemary and Maldon salt, then stuffed inside); and finally the 'nuvola' version, which is tall, creamy and fluffy, first baked in a pan and then on the grill.

Our tastings confirmed not only the goodness of the base (after all, the baking staff was trained by a master like Riccardo Antoniolo) but also the creative quality of the toppings. We tasted the gourmet scrocchiarella type (which blends the two versions described above) stuffed with mortadella Favola, burrata, rocket and pistachio granules, very good and rich; then, same texture, an interpretation of the piadina romagnola, with Galloni's 36-month 'black label' raw ham, rocket and squacquerone, which was also convincing.

Then the classics: Margherita with cooked ham served on the side, to be added as you like (they are very keen on the contrast of temperatures and the cooked-hot game, ed.); and Capri, with buffalo milk mozzarella - added after cooking -, Prà basil, taggiasche olives and red and yellow tomatoes. But the most delightful morsels, delicious and refined at the same time, came when we bit into two declinations of gourmet pizza: Ligure (with fiordilatte cheese added before baking, then taggiasche olives, Parmigiano Reggiano flakes, green beans, basil and Prà pesto. Really delicious) and Santa Monica (with fiordilatte added before baking, then burrata cheese, watercress, red prawns, pistachio granules, orange powder and a light citronette).


Carlo Passera
source: https://www.identitagolose.it/ermes/newsletter/?id=694

Leggi il testo integrale nel link FONTE (qui sopra)