Was it best to go straight for the pizza, for which patron-chef Paco Magri has deservedly become famous, or to enjoy mostly the cuisine of a traditional restaurant, well rooted in its area, in business since back in 1966 with its founder, granddad Albino Dordoni (now in its third generation, with Paco and his sister Chiara)?

A visit to the website didn’t help (it’s very old: Paco, you should change it!); as soon as we arrived, we were even more confused. On the façade, the sign said "Dordoni", while on the first floor, next to the garden in front of the entrance, it said "Pizzeria". Since we also thought we’d taste some specialty from Cremona we were rather confused.

Let’s immediately say how it went. Dordoni’s pizza is of the highest quality. We were two at the table, and we tasted two pizzas, choosing them in different styles among the five options available: Napoli Style, Focaccia alta leggera, Pizza alta, Pala alla romana and Evolutiva (all with stone-milled, semi-whole-wheat Petra 1 and Petra 9 flour, as well as the last option with Petra Evolutiva).

After writing so much about Evolutiva, of course we had to order it. There was only one option in terms of seasoning:

Evolutiva with cream of onion, chickpeas and dandelion, «it’s made only with this topping because to this day it’s the one that most enhances the aroma of the wheat, in my opinion – Magri explained to us – Hence turf ingredients: a cream of slowly stewed onions, a cream of chickpeas, and a salad of baby dandelion slightly vaporized with grappa matured in barriques».

It’s true: the dough, with its strong personality, finds a perfect match with the topping, which is harmonious, delicate and very elegant.

Before that, we tried a pizza in the pala alla romana style: the Prawns one, with fiordilatte from Agerola, sliced courgettes, steamed prawns, pink pepper and lime. And this case too, it was very balanced..."


Carlo Passera
source: https://www.identitagolose.it/news/?id=208

Photo from Petra archive

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